The Barrymore

February 12th, 2012 by Erik Chudy

boring bun!The folks behind lbs, Holstein’s and a few other of my top burger spots in town just opened up The Barrymore at the little-known Royal Resort just off the Strip, and I was more than excited to see what else they had in store for me. I’ve read a few things about the place since it opened, plus the pictures of the interior looked like my kind of spot so I really had some high hopes that I would be walking into my next go-to restaurant. All of these things surely added up to a great burger right? Not so much.

The restaurant itself has a great interior; contemporary, hip, kind of reminds me of the Vintner Grill but maybe a little fancier. There is a really small bar at the front, and I think two different dining rooms, seating a total of only 50 people I think so reservations are probably recommended. The Royal Resort is pretty cool as well, the lobby could still use a bit of work with their ceiling tiles for example, but I’m sure the average person won’t notice this.

The menu looks great, I would definitely go back to try many of the items that sounded delicious, but as usual I’m there for only one thing. I did manage to sneak in the lobster mac & cheese before the burger came out; it was decent but not amazing for $13. I’ve also heard from many people that they have a fantastic cocktail menu which I wasn’t totally in the mood for on this visit but would definitely be willing to go back for.

cooked right at leastThe Steakhouse Burger on the menu is listed as grass-fed beef patty, bacon marmalade, gruyere cheese, frisee, oven-roasted tomatoes and garlic aioli. That’s quite a lot of flavors packed into one assembly, and I was almost nervous as to whether all of those would be able to stand out or if some would overpower the others. The burger came out with a very strange looking bun, and pinned with a wooden steak with the lbs logo on it which I thought was odd, but made me even more excited because I haven’t had a bad burger there yet. Maybe it’s because we weren’t actually at lbs but this wasn’t up to par. The meat had good flavor, was definitely cooked medium-rare as ordered, but the toppings and bun added up to something just short of working for me. As predicted, I think the toppings all kind of got lost together, although if you isolated and pulled out individual bites of each they were quite good. The bacon marmalade was probably my favorite, and the bun really detracted from everything for me. The bun to meat ratio was ok, but the bun itself was very dry and just really odd. Overall it was ok, but not at all what I was hoping for.

The fries were good; they had a bit of seasoning and good flavor, and luckily were included with the price of the burger otherwise I’d say the $6 for a side order of them is a bit much. My friend ordered asparagus instead of the fries and we were sadly charged an additional $7. I understand that some menu changes come with an additional fee, but I wasn’t too crazy about that line item on our bill even given the ‘fanciness’ of the restaurant. If we hadn’t done any strange swaps, our meal would have come to $27 for the two burgers which isn’t horrible given the location just off the Strip as well as the interior of the restaurant, unfortunately I thought the burger was just ok. My friend liked hers, but I thought it could be better. If you want to spend about the same on a really great burger I’d say go to Holstein’s if you’re on the strip or lbs if you’re out in the suburbs. But if you want to check out a really cool looking restaurant and eat some other great food definitely check this place out.

Overall score: 78

2 Responses

  1. Joseph A says:

    You got this one very very wrong.
    Barrymore has the best burger in town now….even better than the burger at Bradley Ogden.
    Your credibility is waning I’m afraid.

    • Erik Chudy says:

      did you happen to see my review of the Bradley Ogden burger? if this is better than that one, it’s not saying much in my opinion. and if my credibility is waning after one review you don’t agree with, then I really can’t help you as I’m sure no one has exactly the same opinion as me. even not comparing this to the Ogden burger, there are FAR better burgers on the strip like Burger Bar, Holstein’s…

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